As I roamed the flight line at the Historic Wendover Airfield, walking in the footsteps of World War II heroes, I reminisced back to what it must have been like in the spring of 1945 as the U.S. Army Air Forces based its B-29 fleet there to prepare for the eventual bombing of Japan two months later. The tiny town of just 100 swelled to 20,000 military and civilian employees, part of the secret Manhattan Project to develop and deliver atomic bombs to end the war with Japan.
Looking up to the sky I saw a big, lumbering aircraft to the south, slowly maneuvering itself on a right downwind approach to the 10,000-foot runway 8. I squinted my eyes. Could this be the fabled Enola Gay, the B-29 Superfortress that made its home at Wendover 77 years ago? Was my mind playing tricks on me?
As it turned from its base leg to final approach, I saw the pipe and hose emanating from its tail as the military KC-135 refueling jet made a low runway pass, dipping its wings to the restored vintage control tower, a tribute to the role the Wendover Airfield played in history.
Straddling the Utah-Nevada state line a hundred miles west of Salt Lake City, Wendover is more than concerts and casinos. Today, a highly-motivated group of volunteers have led a mission to preserve the historic airfield and to pay tribute to those who served in World War II. It is a remarkable museum that has brought the airfield back to life with everything from the original Enola Gay hanger to a hulk of a C-123 cargo plane that was used in the filming there of the 1997 film Con Air (the airfield was also used in filming flying saucer scenes in the 1996 Independence Day).
My first encounter with the huge airport came 30 years ago when I was learning to fly. It was a frequent cross country trip for me from SLC, flying high above I-80, dodging Hill Air Force Base F-16s and putting my Cessna 172 down on the massively long runways. I remember the small displays in the operations building that touched on the airfield’s history.
Over the past two decades, the airfield has been rejuvenated. The small displays in the airport’s FBO have expanded into a huge museum in the former officer’s club, providing an easy-to-walk tour on two floors through the history of the airfield and chronicling the life of soldiers in World War II.
Today, you can drive through the remnants of the base, seeing rows and rows of housing plus the only former World War II air base where the entire flight line of hangars, control tower and operations buildings are still in existence.
The museum itself has a patriotic feel, with flags draped from the ceiling and mezzanine. You are greeted with a full-sized replica of Little Boy, the first atomic bomb which was dropped on Hiroshima, August 6, 1945. There are detailed historic displays of the base itself, with artifacts and photographs. The museum also transports you back to the ’40s detailing the life of soldiers in the great world war.
As a pilot and a history buff myself, I could spend hours at the airfield. Climbing the 60-foot restored control tower, I was treated to a panoramic view of the west desert with the crossing runways of the Wendover Airfield in the foreground.
Then, as I headed out from my trip into the past, two modern-day F-35 fighter jets from Hill Air Force Base came winging their way out of the Utah Test &Training Range to the east to make their own salute to Wendover.
The Details
Getting There: Just hop onto I-80 and head west! A drive to Wendover is an easy day trip, about two hours from Park City. Make sure to leave with a full tank of gas, and freshen it for the trip home. On the way out, stop at the westbound rest area just outside Wendover to see the Bonneville Salt Flats up close. Recent rains have created a new dynamic.
Museum: Before you go, check out the highly informative website at wendoverairfield.org. The museum is just $5 for adults, $3 for teens and kids are free. There’s even a mobile app to guide you around the airfield. And if you’re at least 40 inches tall, you can climb the restored 1945 vintage control tower.
Fun Stuff: The airfield museum is fascinating, with lots of actual artifacts from World War II. It’s also an education visit for kids to learn about the tragedy of war. On the way out, make it a fun trip. Kids, see who can spot the most roadside art installations in the final 30 minutes of the trip. Before that, keep an eye out for a set of roadside giant eyes staring back at you.
Dining: If you want to avoid the casinos and quick serve drive-thrus, check out the locals-popular Salt Flats Cafe near the airfield or Tacos El Brasero a few blocks north on the main street through Wendover. Both are cash only. Or duck off Main Street to visit Fratelli Pizza.
Next Week: To cool off a bit, we’ll head up to the Uintas along the Mirror Lake Highway.